When I left home almost 3 weeks ago, my vision and plan was to make it to the California coastline before heading east.  Well, the fires in CA and Oregon made that almost impossible to do with a RV.  So, I changed plans and heading south east towards the Grand Canyon.  I actually drove a double stint yesterday so that I could take a day off from driving and get my plans together.  I found this little RV campground on the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indian reservation. 

When I booked this place, it looked nice and was close to the canyon but far enough away to save some cash.  What I didn't know was across the street from the campground was the Pipe Spring National Monument.  The funny part was that I was here almost 24 hours before I realized the importance of this place.  It started out as a fort but was later bought by Brigham Young as a settlement for the Mormons who were traveling through the area as a place to find water and food and possibly be used as an underground to hide men who had more than one wife. 

The Paiute Indians in the area were cut off from their water supply because the fort or castle as it was renamed was built right on top of the main spring.  This caused their tribe to go from 1200 at the time to about 80.  Nowadays, the Indian tribe is trying to rebound but only to the number of just over 300 members, some of whom work for the national park service with Pipe Spring.  The stories were numerous as the tour group I was with, all 3 members, were all attentive.  Funny thing, our tour guide actually worked at the Hatteras lighthouse last year and then found this location to do tours. 

She was very knowledgeable on the subject.
The property was developed as a homestead type location where passersby could stop in and stay mostly for free, unless they were salesmen!  lol  The local Indians who were having a hard time to survive because of lack of water for their crops and livestock would stop in for some food. 

I found it funny to hear that they would sometimes be baptized 2-3 times a year at the Mormon fort.  This was due to the fact that each time they were baptized, they would receive a sack of flour and a new white shirt.  Another interesting point was that even though the fort was established to control the water, the fort was never in battle and eventually the Paiute Indians and the settlers got along.  Next up...The Grand Canyon

Grand Teton National Park

Setting out on the planning for this trip, I had envisioned traveling from North Carolina to the Oregon coastline and traveling down the pacific coast highway.  Well, things have changed due to all the fires on the west coast.  The advantage of technology is that I can track all the fires and have been trying to avoid those areas.  My new route from Yellowstone NP is south, through the Grand Teton national park.
The park itself was amazingly small but very overwhelming.  It's one of those national parks you see lots of photos from but not much else.  As I was beginning to drive through the park, I knew today would be an experience that I would have to retain but probably wouldn't get many good photos.  The air was so thick from the smoke from 100's of miles away. 

I could see the vastness of the mountains but as you can see above, not very clear.  I did buy a post card, I cheated, so that I could have something to remember what I was supposed to be seeing.  lol
Still heading south, I ventured into Jackson, WY or as they prefer as you are driving through Jackson Hole.  There is only two words for this place, tourist trap.  Don't get me wrong, its a beautiful area but it's like driving through Blowing Rock on steroids times 10!  I did drive around their Elk Reserve that surrounds the town while looking for a camping spot.  No elk to be seen as they were still in the parks but still beautiful.

The next day I drove mostly through the back country of Idaho.  So beautiful and so many animals.  Never did see any potato farms though, kinda disappointed but that's ok.  I stayed in a small town after just crossing the border in Utah next to a horse farm and some more mountains in the distance.

Driving today through the backside of Utah, I avoided Salt Lake city even though it was Sunday and probably no traffic but I have been enjoying driving the back roads and today was no exception.  Today I drove many miles down Hwy 30 in Utah where I never passed a store or gas station or even many cars.  I mean, in over an hour, I saw 2 vehicles!  The country side in Utah is what you see in the movies.  Visually appealing mountains and hill sides that go on forever.  My destination today was to the Bonneville Salt Flats, UT.  This area is so beautiful.  I camped right next to this hill side with no one around on the BLM. (Bureau of Land Management protected area)  I drove down to the Bonneville speedway, about 3 miles away and could see in the distance they were doing motor bike practice before their big event this weekend.  All I can say, it's very bright out there.  Back to my camp spot, I finally broke out my drone to see what I could see.  What do you think...

Growing up in North Carolina, you are aware that our state gives you just about everything from coastal waters, through the plains and then the mountains.  The Great Smokey Mountain NP and the Blue Ridge Parkway are our big claims to fame.  Ever how much I love where I grew up and still live today, these areas have nothing to compare to Yellowstone National Park.  You have miles and miles of shore line around it's numerous lakes. 

The mountain regions to many to count, but they are far and wide.  You can actually ride for just a few miles and go from a plain where the animals are abundant to the tops of some of the mountain tops and gorges.  Water falls are everywhere and then you have all the volcanic areas from mud pots pouring from the earth to hot springs and geysers.
While getting ready for this leg of the trip, I found an advertisement in a Wyoming tourism magazine for an app for your smartphone.  It's called Gypsy Yellowstone NP and it's just AMAZING.  I am not gonna do a commercial for it or anything but this app doesn't require cell or wifi, it follows your path via GPS in whichever direction you go around the park and gives you commentary on things you must see and advise on all the various animals throughout the park.  I just set it to play through the truck speakers and it would play every few minutes when you were approaching points of interest.

I knew that I only would have a day or so in the park.  I had made reservations at a campground the week prior but could only get 1 night.  I wanted to make the best of it so I entered through the west entrance and soon headed north in a counterclockwise path around the "Loop" of the park.
You hear about all the visitors to the park and their stories of close encounters with wild life, well I had one too.  This big guy decided he wanted to take the road less rocky and take a stroll.

Next up, was the northern side of the park where the mineral hot springs are abundant.  This was a great time to get out and stake a walk on the various boardwalks the park provided to see what you could see.  Then, the part of the day that wasn't planned, traffic and road construction.  You know when you see a sign that says expect 30 minute delays and to be sure to turn your engine off, you know it's gonna be awhile.  The national park service does an amazing job but to the life of me, I really can't understand digging up the ENTIRE road for 10-15 miles at a time and have everyone drive on gravel. 

Oh well, next up, the color fields of the geysers and mineral springs.  This place was gorgeous.  I could have stayed here all day and I hear that some people do.  The vividness of the color and bacteria from the hot springs and geysers were gorgeous.
And finally, onward to Old Faithful geyser.  Now, this is the most popular area and it shows.  The roads turn into something from a small city with over passes.  The parking lots were enormous.  After getting turned around, I finally made my way to the viewing area, only to see the end of the show. 

Old Faithful Geyser

I arrived right as Old Faithful was finishing up.  What do I do?  Do I leave and say that I saw the show only to know that I saw the ending or do I wait for another 90 minutes, it ended up being 102 mins, before she put on a fantastic show.  Arriving early, I had a prime spot that I occupied all by myself for over 45 mins.  lol  It was worth the wait and I even saw another geyser in the distance put on a show of its own while I waited. 
Arriving at the campground near the southern entrance, I was plum tired.  I only drove about 160 miles around the park but the constant of stopping and getting out to view things and back again was a lot for one day.  If I get to do it again, hopefully with Melanie next time, I'll know better and we can spend several days plundering the park.  All in all, it was a great day.  Tomorrow, there's a change in plans...

Leaving the Devils Tower National monument park, I was anxious to get to my next planned destination.  Who knew that this part of my journey would be the most lonely part I have encountered so far.  Not only am I traveling by myself but there was hardly any traffic for miles in front of behind me for hours at a time.  Now I am not complaining about no traffic but a car every now or then can at least show you that you're not crazy in traveling this path. 

I realized that after driving for several hours on end, I was going to need to stop and rest.  There were very few options on this leg.  I found a very little town that I think it's main purpose was to keep the main line of the railroad going as there was a huge train junction about 3 blocks away from where I held up for the night.  Yep, you got it, train whistles all night long.  Luckily, I was so tired, I never hardly heard them.
After a good nights rest and planning and a nice hot shower too, I was on my way to my next layover before I entered the park.  I wanted to enter the park in the mid morning because I had been told that the sunlight made the show even better. 

I found a campground in the Shoshone National Forest that was underneath some amazing mountains and a river at their base.  It is still mesmerizing to me that anyone is allowed to camp this close to such scenic views.  All the planning I have done the past several years, I have read how you can camp off grid and be amazed.  Wifi and cell service is few and far between and you realize how much you depend on it, not for email and social media, but when you want to search for something you've seen and want to know more.  Oh well, I hope you have been enjoying the ride and just wait til you see what's in store tomorrow...

Devils Tower, WY

Growing up, you look back trying to remember when things came out and how you remember them.  The movie "Close Encounters of the Third Kind" came out in 1977.  I was 11 and looking back, I remember seeing the movie but not in the theater.  My biggest memory of that year was that "Star Wars" came out and thanks to my cousin Danny, we went to see it together and I've been hooked ever since. 

But back to Close Encounters, I have seen this movie several times over and over again, even as recent as last night.  It's a little dated but it still has merit.  The scenes in and around the Devils Tower were fantastic.  I wanted to see for myself how majestic this "tower" was.  I wasn't disappointed.  From 10 miles away as I crested a peek on the highway, I could see the Devils Tower through the morning fog. 
I stopped at a viewing area 2 miles away but it still wasn't very clear.  Approaching the park entrance, I finally got to see the tower in vivid detail.  The next revelation was not expected, the park ranger at the entrance informed me that the first come campground wasn't full and to pick my spot.  Who could resist. 

My spot, as with many of my camp spots on this trip was over the top, don't you think?
After resting and setting up the camper for the night, it was time to see the tower up close.  I took off on a 4 1/2 miles hike up to the base of the tower and around to the backside where the visitors center was located. 
The hike was a narrow path, shared with some prairie dogs.  They were peaceful creatures and fun to watch.  Hiking up and around the tower, every time I looked up, the view of the tower changed and for the better.  I met several other hikers around the base, one couple who was traveling from New Jersey on their way to Yellowstone NP.  It was a fantastic day and one that I will remember from a long time. 
After another night or 2 disperse camping again, lets see what I can find next...